13 Delightful Things to do in Xalapa, Veracruz

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Wondering about the best things to do in Xalapa? I used to live in Xalapa and I’m here to show you all of the city’s most fascinating sites and attractions.

I first learned about Xalapa back in 2010 when I spontaneously applied to a study abroad program to learn Spanish in Mexico.

My program was based in Xalapa, and while I was initially resentful of its lack of beaches and tanning opportunities (back then I was all about Mexico stereotypes), I quickly fell in love with this charming, artistic city.

🧐 Did you know: The city of Xalapa is officially known as Xalapa-Enriquez, and sometimes referred to as Jalapa (in writing). It will answer to any of these names. Xalapa’s other monikers include “The Athens of Veracruz” for the art scene, and “The City of Flowers” because it is so lush with plant life. 

It turns out there are so many things to do in Xalapa that I forgot about the beach altogether!

In fact, my love for Xalapa was so strong that I ended up moving back in 2018 for over two years.

Now, I’m sure you’re thinking: if Xalapa is SO special, why am I just now hearing about it?

Well… I could hypothesize about this all day, but the important thing is that you’re learning about it now.

Xalapa may not sound as alluring on paper as traveler favorites like Oaxaca and Guanajuato, and it certainly doesn’t have the swagger of Mexico City, but in my opinion, it has just as much to offer. It’s a true hidden gem.

For one, Xalapa has amazing food. This is due to Veracruz state’s subtropical climate, which facilitates the growth of a dizzying array of fruits, vegetables, and, of course, the jalapeño pepper, which is named after the city.

The proximity to the coast means there are all kinds of seafood influences to enjoy as well! And most importantly (to me, anyway), Xalapa and the surrounding area is full of coffee plantations, which yield some of Mexico’s very best coffee.

Xalapa has also played an important role throughout Mexican history. It was one of the first locations reached by the conquistador Hernán Cortes. It’s also the state capital of Veracruz, so it attracts lots of prominent festivals and events. 

Over the years, Xalapa has served as the birthplace of significant figures in Mexico’s government as well as famous writers, musicians, and other cultural figures.

Their legacies are apparent as you explore the city. There is an endless supply of cafe-galerias, mini-museums, historical sites, bookstores, and musical venues, many of which hold workshops or classes to help you learn new forms of artistic expression.

And finally, what I think makes Xalapa so incredibly special is the location. The city sits among mountains, in what you might be inclined to call a cloud forest.

While the steep landscape of the city can be frustrating for pedestrians, we can probably agree that the views make it worth it.

From almost anywhere in Xalapa, you’re exposed to views of lush, green hillsides with snowy peaks lingering in the distance. It’s truly breathtaking.

Have I convinced you yet?

Related Reading:

• 36 Essential Travel Tips for Mexico
• Backpacking Mexico on a Budget: The Ultimate Guide
• 25+ Amazing Destinations for Your Mexico Bucket List

Top Things to do in Xalapa

1. Browse the Xalapa Anthropology Museum

Av. Xalapa | Tuesday – Sunday from 9am – 5pm | Admission $50 MXN

The Museo de Antropología de Xalapa features an impressive collection of artifacts from the Olmec, Huastec, and Totonac cultures, all of which hail from the Gulf Coast of Mexico.

The enormous Olmec heads are literally impossible to miss, while the smaller Totonac sculptures and other artifacts will draw you in with their quirky, comical expressions!

The museum’s interpretive signs are in Spanish, but for a couple of dollars, you can rent an iPod featuring English translations for all of the exhibits.

After your visit, sprawl out on the huge grassy lawn, which is perfect for a picnic on warm days.

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2. Wander the Scenic Centro Histórico

The centro histórico neighborhood of Xalapa is truly beautiful. Despite being compact, you could easily spend half a day wandering the callejones, exploring the parks, and popping in and out of coffee shops and eateries.

Photographers will be in heaven. The buildings of the colonial center are striking against the backdrop of the lush green mountains in the distance! Start your meander at Parque Juarez and work your way out from there.

3. Visit the Ex Hacienda El Lencero Museum

Carr. Federal Xalapa – Veracruz km 10 | Tuesday – Sunday from 10am – 5pm | Admission $40 MXN adults, $25 MXN kids 4 and up

This Spanish colonial hacienda sits just a few minutes outside Xalapa and is well worth a visit. The original owner of the hacienda was one of the soldiers of Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortes (Cortes first landed in the village of Antigua, about 30 minutes from Xalapa).

In 1842 the hacienda was sold to Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna who was a military general and eventually became president of Mexico not once, not twice, but eleven times (despite doing a terrible job the first 10 times).

Santa Anna has a long, storied history in Mexican politics but one of his major “claims to fame” was repealing the Mexican constitution in 1835, which resulted in the Texas revolution and ultimately led to Texas seceding from Mexico.

Inside El Lencero you will find a number of documents and artifacts related to Santa Anna’s military career and the Texas Revolution in particular.

The grounds of the hacienda feature a beautiful garden, a chapel (because why wouldn’t you have your own private chapel?) and a swimming pool connected to a beautiful pond filled with ducks and geese!

The hacienda itself is gorgeous and filled with antique furniture from the era– I don’t believe any of it is original, but it still serves to help you imagine what it could have been like back in the day.

There are also a couple of old-fashioned carriages and wagons on the site– these would be even more intriguing if they had horses attached to them, but alas, they do not. All in all, the hacienda is a beautiful site and a great way to spend a few hours outside the city.

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4. Explore the Markets

For me, exploring the local market is a fascinating exercise everywhere I visit. It’s also a good opportunity to grab an inexpensive sample of the local cuisine. If there’s a regional specialty to be found, the market is usually a good place to get a first taste.

If this sounds like fun to you, Xalapa has three markets located right in the city center:

• La Rotunda
• Mercado San Jose
• Mercado Jauregui

Jauregui (pronounced “how-rag-ee”) is host to food along with textiles, flowers, woodcrafts, and more, while La Rotunda and San Jose are mostly food-focused. Eating a giant picadita at the Mercado La Rotunda is a rite of passage in Xalapa. Take your appetite. 

I bought my fruit and veggies at Mercado San Jose every week, and it’s definitely the most “relaxed” of the three markets. It also has a selection of restaurants and cantinas lining the perimeter, in case you find yourself needing a refreshment after your shopping excursion.

5. Hop Aboard El Piojito for a City Tour

El Piojito is a trolley car that shuttles tourists around the city for historical tours. The one-hour tour will take you to some of the city’s most notable locations while explaining their historical significance.

Tours are offered in Spanish, but even if your skills are limited, you’re sure to enjoy the scenery. For 50 pesos, el piojito is a great way to get to know the city. Buy tickets and climb onboard on Calle Enriquez in front of the Santander bank.

6. Visit the Many City Parks

Parque de los Tecajetes

Parque Tecajetes is a green jungle oasis near the center of Xalapa. In this small, beautiful park, you’ll find sculptures, koi ponds, and even a waterfall!

It’s a peaceful and scenic spot to spend some time amongst the greenery. After wandering for a while, treat yourself to some nieve (ice cream) from the cart out front.

Los Berros

This circular city park is my favorite in the city for a couple of reasons:

1. Ponies. Every weekend nearby pony ranchers (I don’t know what to call them), bring their shaggy equines to the park, outfitted with big western saddles (complete with toy pistols) to sell pony rides to the kids. If you’re an adult you can pet the ponies for free!

2. The neighborhood. The neighborhood surrounding Los Berros is filled with some of Xalapa’s prettiest homes and some of the best coffee shops in town. Honestly, it’s fun just to wander the streets in this part of town and enjoy the scenery!

Los Berros is beautiful any time, but it’s at it’s best on the weekends when it is filled with families partaking in activities together.

You’ll find vendors selling ice cream, tamales, elotes, balloons, and more! There’s also a train that circles the outer rim of the park, blasting reggaeton and offering rides to children and families for a small fee.

In the center of the park, there’s usually a stand where kids can rent miniature electric cars and drive them around in circles as their parents look on. Be careful as you walk through, the kids are aggressive drivers!

Almost every park in Mexico is a lively scene on the weekend, but Los Berros is especially fun, in my opinion. Even if you don’t have a child with you to partake in all of the activities, the joy and excitement in the air is contagious!

Parque Juárez

Located right in the center of Xalapa, Parque Juarez is a traditional town zócalo, bordered by the Municipal Palace and the Government Palace. This is a common location for public events, including political rallies, concerts, and dance presentations, among other things.

On the weekends, Parque Juarez is full of families, couples, and vendors selling everything from crepes and elotes to candy and toys.

The park sits on the top of a hill and consists of multiple levels. On the top level, there’s a lookout offering views of the Pico de Orizaba (or, Citlaltépetl in Nahuatl). Orizaba is the highest mountain in Mexico and one of the tallest peaks in North America. It also happens to be an active volcano!

Directly below the lookout point sits a Don Justo coffee shop, where you can grab a warm beverage and bite to eat as you take in the scenery from the balcony.

Parque Los Lagos

Los Lagos is a series of man-made lakes surrounded by a pedestrian walkway known as the paseo de Los Lagos. The main lake is located just down the hill from Xalapa’s center. The lakes are located between the historic center and the Universidad Veracruzana.

The neighborhoods surrounding the lake host a large student population, and the eateries and bars in the area feature really budget-friendly (and tasty) food and drink.

Los Lagos is a popular walking/jogging/dog walking route. It’s a great spot to go for a leisurely stroll and stop off for an ice cream cone or elote along the way. On sunny days you can rent little boats and row out onto the lake!

Find Xalapa’s parks on this map:

7. Hike Macuiltepetl

6am – 7pm daily

Right in the (geographical) center of the city sits a hill called Macuiltepetl which also happens to be home to a park of the same name… or, as I like to call it, the “Runyon Canyon of Xalapa.”

On a clear day, this 30-minute “hike” (it’s mostly paved) will reward you with stunning, panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains.

Even when it’s not clear, it still makes a fun trek. When you reach the bottom again, reward yourself with an elote or nieve!

8. Eat Mexico’s BEST Tacos

I know, it sounds like an exaggeration, but I promise it isn’t. These tacos are one of the Top 3 reasons that I moved to Mexico and definitely one of the main reasons I live in Xalapa. I discovered this taco stand on my way home from school in 2010. I was relieved to find that was still there when I moved back to Xalapa in 2018.

Now, the word “stand” is a bit generous since it’s actually a woman who sells tacos out of the trunk of her car, but just go with it. Every day, Monday to Friday, she sets up near the corner of Calle Pino Suarez and Calle Jose Maria Mata.

She has a printed sign advertising her eight or so different taco fillings. I recommend encebollado (steak with onions) or carnitas, but there are tons of other options to experiment with. She’ll hand you a massive taco con copia (meaning it’s wrapped in 2 tortillas), and then it’s up to you to add fixins.

I advise going all in on toppings: cilantro, onions, lime, and a spoonful of her mind-blowing salsa verde. In my opinion, the salsa verde is the best part of the experience, so don’t you dare skip it. One taco makes a hearty snack, two make a meal. Tacos are 12 pesos each.

9. Go on a Coffee Crawl

There are so many coffee shops in Xalapa that you could spend a lifetime trying them all out. …That was meant to be an exaggeration, but I don’t think it actually is.

That said, I have found a few favorites that I return to time and again. 

These should get you started:

• El Cafe-Tal – Along with serving tasty coffee, this happens to be one of my favorite brunch spots in Xalapa. The cafe occupies an old house which has been converted into a restaurant. In that spirit, there are three different dining rooms upstairs, which creates kind of an intimate, speakeasy feel even though this place is hardly a secret. If you visit for breakfast, they offer great packages (called paquetes), which include an entree along with coffee and orange juice for a really reasonable price (under $5 USD).

• Kariva Cafe – Conveniently located within Xalapa’s Centro histórico, Kariva is one of my favorite places to enjoy a coffee. Their coffee has a rich, well-rounded flavor, and they roast it on-site. The interior of the cafe offers low lighting and comfortable seating. It makes for a cozy and relaxing spot to work or read for a couple of hours.

• Flor 14 – Another cafe within a repurposed house, Flor 14 offers multiple different spaces, including a covered patio adorned with a plethora of plants, a library room, a cozy mezzanine, and more! A true cafe/gallery, sometimes they host live music events or book readings. Personally, I come for the chocolate Oaxaqueña and you should too. This tasty cinnamon-accented hot chocolate can’t be missed.

10. Catch a Performance at the Teatro del Estado

Calle Ignacio de la Llave 2

As the capital city of Veracruz and a thriving university town, Xalapa is a cultural hub. The Teatro del Estado (State theatre) hosts everything from symphony performances to internationally renowned comedians, theatre groups, musicians, and more. It’s definitely worth checking the performance schedule during your visit to Xalapa!

11. Explore the Callejones

Xalapa’s callejones (or, alleys as we call them in English) aren’t anywhere near as narrow or extensive as what you might find in a city like Guanajuato, but they are still worth a visit. Most of the callejones are residential and, lined with beautifully painted homes featuring rustic wooden doors, they make from great photo opps. In my opinion, Callejón de Rojas and callejón Jesús te Ampare are two of the most beautiful, but you’ll find plenty of others as you explore Xalapa on foot!

There are a couple of callejones which aren’t residential, both can found in Xalapa’s historic center.

• The callejón de diamantes is lined with cafes and vendors selling anything from keychains and bracelets to crystals and pashminas. If you’re searching for souvenirs, this is a great place to start.
• The callejón de Gonzalez Aparicio is home to an array of restaurants and bars and is a lively scene on weekend evenings. If you’re looking for a cocktail, this is a safe bet.

Use this map to plan your callejón exploration!

12. Take a day trip to Coatepec and Xico

Coatepec and Xico are two beautiful pueblos mágicos (magical towns) located just outside Xalapa. Coatepec is about 20 minutes away, driving, and Xico is another 10-15 minutes. Visiting both of these charming colonial towns makes a great day trip from Xalapa. 

Coatepec is up first. Principally known as a coffee-growing community, you’ll find no shortage of coffee shops, roasteries, and coffee-related tours and paraphernalia for sale in the center of town. Make a morning of coffee-shop hopping, tasting the bespoke brews from the area. Don’t forget to pick up some coffee beans as a souvenir. 

Coatepec has a beautiful colonial town center, and on Sundays, it’s a popular escape from Xalapa. Many folks head out there to enjoy a nice lunch and browse the many shops in the center of town. It’s a warm and lively place to be. There are often bands playing in the restaurants along the zócalo, and sometimes even putting on concerts in the town square!

Next, head down the road to the magical town of Xico. Take some time to wander through the town center and admire the colorful colonial buildings. Pop into some of the bakeries as you go– Xico is known for them! 

If you’d like to get a taste of nature, hike to the Cascada de Texolo. Sometimes you can swim in the pools at the bottom of the beautiful waterfall, but during the rainy season (May – November) it’s usually too strong to be safe. You’ll be able to tell when you get there. 

🧐 Do you ever watch Mexican films? You might recognize Xico as the backdrop in The Crime of Father Amaro, starring Gael García Bernal. The Xalapa Cathedral is featured in many scenes, too. If you’re curious about the area’s scenery, the film gives you a good sense of it. 

13. Visit the town of Naolinco

Naolinco is a small town just to the north of Xalapa. It’s only about 20 miles away, but the road is a twisty, narrow mountain pass, so it is slow-going. You won’t mind though, because the scenery is spectacular. You’ll enjoy sweeping views of farmland, lush jungle scapes, and waterfalls. You’ll also pass through a couple of quaint villages along the way.

Once you reach Naolinco, you’ll be thrown into the world of leather crafts. There are a million stores here selling every leather product imaginable, from shoes and belts to dog collars, handbags, and saddles for horses. 

​Even if you’re not serious about buying anything, it’s fun to pop in and out of the shops and see all the different products.

Naolinco is also a really beautiful little colonial town. It’s especially lively on the weekends. There are lots of great restaurants near the town square, and many Xalapeños (that’s what you call residents of Xalapa!) flock there on their days off.

There’s a really gorgeous viewpoint in Naolinco (literally called Parque Recreativo El Mirador), where you can look over the green valley and spot waterfalls cascading from the surrounding hills. It’s a 20-minute walk from the center of town. 

You can reach Naolinco on the bus from Xalapa. Buses leave from outside the Mercado Jauregui, and departures are very frequent.

Xalapa Restaurants & Bars

Tierra Luna

Calle Diego Leño 24A

Tierra Luna is a cafe/theatre, which means you’ll have a chance to catch a performance while you’re there. They regularly host events and workshops such as Tango nights, live music performances, and more. The food menu features an array of traditional Mexican offerings, all of which are delicious. This is a great spot for lunch or dinner, and even if there is no event you’ll enjoy a relaxing meal in their beautiful, spacious, colonial-style dining room!

Asadero Cien

Av. Manuel Ávila Camacho 118

If you love tacos you’ve got to give Asadero Cien a try. This popular restaurant originated in Xalapa as a taco shop with just 4 tables. Now they’ve expanded into a chain of large, modern restaurants throughout the city. They specialize in carne asada tacos but offer a lengthy menu filled with tasty options. Trust me, you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu. Don’t skip the sopa Azteca. I listed my favorite location here, but there are many to choose from throughout the city.

Tacos Tom-Mix

Av. Manuel Ávila Camacho 11B
If pastor tacos are your thing, you’ll love Tom-Mix. It’s a typical taco shop with a trompo out front and a basic dining room. I’ve been slowly working my way through Xalapa’s pastor offerings for the past year and Tom-Mix continues to be my top pick. Again, there are multiple locations but I listed my favorite above.

La Lola Pizzas

J. Ma. Pino Suárez 2
Lola is one of my favorite places for date night. They have tasty cocktails, great service, and delicious pizza. They also have live music a few nights a week. If you’re willing to take a break from tacos, Lola is a fun spot to spend the evening. You can check their Facebook page for info on their current promos and theme nights.

La Chiva

Calle José María Mata 18B

This laid-back bar is a great place for pre- or post-dinner drinks. The space is mostly open-air, with only a few tables inside, each illuminated by a combo of candles and twinkly string lights. The menu features an array of beer and cocktails and a few botanas (appetizers) so you don’t have to drink on an empty stomach.

Where to Stay: Hotels in Xalapa, Mexico

Budget

Casa de Juan Hostal
Budget travelers will appreciate not only the affordable rates but also the central location of this hostel. The dorm rooms are clean, the communal spaces are large and comfortable, and the staff is friendly and happy to help with anything you need. This hostel is right in downtown Xalapa so finding a taxi will never be a challenge. There are plenty of affordable dining options as well as a grocery store and multiple mercados within walking distance.

Click here to check current rates!

Mid-Range

Posada de Cafeto

This gorgeous, hacienda-style hotel makes a wonderful oasis right in the center of Xalapa. Located just a few minutes walk from Parque Juarez, you’ll be within easy walking distance of many of Xalapa’s attractions.

Click to check rates at Posada de Cafeto!

What to Pack For Xalapa

Xalapa Mexico Weather

Xalapa has a sub-tropical climate, meaning it’s hot and humid in the summer and cold and humid in the winter. The rainy months are June through October. At this time of year, the days are warm and sunny until about 4 pm when the daily rain shower occurs. Usually, the rain doesn’t last more than a couple of hours, and then the sun returns.

In the winter, full-on rain is minimal, but light, misty rain is common. Xalapeños call this phenomenon Chipi Chipi. You won’t feel like a rain jacket is necessary until you arrive at your destination completely soaked through due to persistent mist.

Moral of the story? Bring a rain shell when you visit Xalapa. This one stuffs into one of the hand pockets, making it a great option for carry-on travelers!

It’s also worth mentioning that the winter months can be quite cold. Xalapa is at 4,600 feet (1400 m) of elevation, so the temperature drops when the sun goes down. On top of that, indoor heating is rare in Mexico. Be sure to pack layers for visiting Xalapa (unless you come in the summer).

Xalapa Street Style

As you pack for Xalapa, you’ll want to consider the city’s culture. Even though the climate isn’t necessarily different, visiting Mexico’s cities calls for a slightly different wardrobe than visiting the beach towns.

I don’t know about where you’re from, but when I first arrived in Xalapa after living in Los Angeles and then the Riviera Maya, I felt chronically under-dressed at all times. Over the past year, since moving here, I’ve been working to upgrade my wardrobe so I can fit in a little better! Basically, the trend-ripped jeans and stylishly faded t-shirts that helped me blend in in California have the opposite effect here.

If you want to blend in here, aim for a polished look. I’d also recommend erring on the conservative side and avoiding anything strapless or that shows a lot of leg. Obviously, it’s up to you, but I don’t feel comfortable showing a lot of skin on the street.

In the summer, I rely on sundresses, shorts (not too short, though!), and T-shirts. In the winter jeans and sweaters are the comfiest.

For footwear, you’ll want something sensible. Xalapa is full of hills. In fact, you know that old saying, “When I was a kid, I had to walk up the hill BOTH ways to get to school and back”? Well, that’s actually TRUE in Xalapa.

On top of that, the sidewalks aren’t always in good repair, and sometimes they don’t even exist at all!

You should pick a shoe that’s comfortable and has a good grip, as the streets and sidewalks get slippery here when it rains. I LIVE in these Vans slip-ons, but any comfortable sneaker will do.

Remember, Xalapa is a big city. If you happen to forget anything essential, you’ll be able to buy a substitute somewhere here. The Plaza Americas shopping mall has just about anything you could possibly need.

Is Xalapa, Mexico Safe?

Mention your plans to visit the state of Veracruz, and you’re sure to encounter someone who has negative things to say about the security of the area. Just remember, the same could be said for almost anywhere in Mexico.

If you look up crime statistics, the figures aren’t favorable for this area. But I can tell you, having lived here for 2+ years, I don’t feel like Xalapa is a dangerous destination for travelers.

Of course, it’s always important to be cautious, but I have no qualms about encouraging you to visit the area.

Getting to and From Xalapa

Where is Xalapa, Veracruz?

Xalapa is located about 5 hours Southeast of Mexico City and about 1 hour from the port city of Veracruz on the Gulf coast of Mexico. With an elevation of 4,600 feet, Xalapa sits in a cloud forest within the Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range. Surrounded by volcanoes and lush tropical forests, Xalapa is incredibly scenic!

Arriving in Xalapa by Air

Xalapa’s nearest airport is the Veracruz International Airport which is 45 – 60 minutes away by car. Depending on where you are traveling from, arriving in Xalapa via Veracruz is a good option.

The Veracruz airport is small and easy to navigate, and the drive to Xalapa is really scenic! If you choose to rent a car, it can be done from the airport. If you wish to travel to Xalapa via bus, you will have to take a taxi to the nearest ADO station. A first class bus ticket to Xalapa will cost approximately $200 MXN.

Click here to check fares to Veracruz!

Getting to Xalapa by Bus

Xalapa’s bus station is called CAXA (central de Autobuses de Xalapa), and it is serviced by the ADO bus line. There are multiple buses to Xalapa daily that leave directly from Benito Juarez International Airport in Mexico City.

There are also ADO buses to Xalapa leaving hourly from Mexico City’s TAPO station. A ticket for the airport shuttle bus will cost you approximately $670 MXN, while a ticket from TAPO will cost between $200 – $700 MXN, depending on which class of bus you opt for.

If you happen to be in another city in Mexico and want to arrive by bus, you’ll have to look for ADO or AU bus fares, as those are the only two companies that service Xalapa. These companies don’t service states north of Mexico City, so if you’re coming from far away, you’ll have to transfer buses to Mexico City or Puebla.

Click here to learn more about Mexico’s bus systems!

Xalapa, Veracruz FAQs